Berliner takeaway review: The Berlin-style Gemüse kebab has arrived in Dublin

Mert Börke, an Italian-Turkish gastronomy and culinary arts graduate from Yeditepe University in Istanbul, who has worked in the hospitality industry for 15 years, teamed up with Kazım Ersöz, a Turkish industrial engineer, and Yağız Karaca, a former head chef for the Turkish government, to open Berliner in July, a kebab takeaway on Richmond Street. The trio were already in business together as the sole distributor of Hamido Baklava in Ireland, the same bakery that supplies Nusret, the world-renowned steakhouse of “Salt Bae” fame.
Karaca identified that there was an opportunity in Dublin for the Berlin-style Gemüse Kebab, in a market that is heavily influenced by Iranian, Iraqi, and to some extent, Indian cuisine. They make their Turkish-style döners with 100 per cent lamb and, for the chicken, with an even split of thigh and breast meat. The lamb is Irish, so too is the chicken, but it is not free-range as is all too often the case with takeaways and indeed restaurants.
The cocktail sauce, garlic sauce, spicy kebab sauce, tzatziki, muhammara, and slaw are all made in-house; the cheese sauce is bought in, ready-made. Börke points out that their kebab is not a copy of the classic Gemüse kebab; it’s an improved variation. Instead of the usual four-component sandwich, they prepare their sandwich with up to 14 ingredients if you wish. The bread is a special sourdough puff.
For now, just the kebabs and falafel are available, the barbecue menu with Adana kebab will be coming on stream soon.
A Berliner kebab, Turkish lamb döner and falafel.
Pleasant and chatty.
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The toasted sourdough puff for the Berliner is filled like a bowl, layered with chicken, salad, a mix of fried aubergine, bell pepper, courgette and carrot, and laced with sauces. It is tasty and very substantial. So too is the lamb döner, which is mildly spiced.
The falafels are very good, flattened into large discs and come in pitta bread with a refreshing tzatziki and salad. They are crispy on the outside and have a fluffy interior.
Paper packaging is recyclable if clean.
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€35.70 for dinner for three people: Berliner kebab, €11.90; Turkish lamb döner, €13.90; and falafel, €9.90.
Open daily, 2pm-2am. Takeaway, eat-in and delivery available with Deliveroo and Just Eat within a 5km radius.
While this would not be my top choice for kebabs, (I’m a big fan of Passion 4 Food and Reyna), I would happily order them again.